Movement, aesthetics, and life beyond climbing with professional photographer Anthony Lapomardo
You’ve seen his work in the Yosemite guidebook, magazines, and other climbing media across the world, but likely never met seen him person - this is an interview with Anthony Lapomardo.
Anthony actually reached out to me via Instagram, commenting on one of posts from Columbia College in Sonora. He DMed me, encouraging me to try an Columbia obscurity. Just through that interaction, I could see his contagious passion for climbing and ocean of experience with some of the best climbers in the world.
After poring through his beautiful work on Instagram, I ran into an article about him and was shocked to learn that he had gone through a car accident that derailed his climbing career over 10 years ago.
I’m young and sometimes find it hard to think about life beyond climbing, as I’m sure several of you do. We train and rely so much on our body, yet we forget that our youth is ephemeral and could go in the blink of an eye. These thoughts, along with Anthony’s deep experience in the sport pushed me to pursue this interview.
Here’s Anthony about climbing photography, aesthetics vs. movement, and life beyond bouldering.
Really dumb question - when you’re taking photos do you ask climbers to pose or are they mostly in action?
Not a dumb question at all. When I first started shooting I tried to blend into the background and allow the images to come about as naturally as possible. But, as I was shooting, I began to hone in on a singular move that drew my attention and then I strived to capture just that, a single move (that to me defines that entire climb).
However, after several years, I started to move towards “creating an image” much like a painter. I use the current tools available to compose the image before it is even shot. Scouting is done digitally, weather, time of day, season, everything can be viewed before you even step foot on the ground. All of the work prior to the shot is planned months ahead of time, but generally during the day, something will change and you will have to be flexible, you can never account for all the variables, but it has helped me achieve images I could have never thought of creating when I was starting out.
When capturing a climber on a boulder, do you climb as well? Do you try to understand and capture a unique movement and engage with the boulder as well? Or do you ignore movement and focus on aesthetics?
I have been climbing for about 16 years now… that sounds old.
I did not start till my 20’s but I was hooked and went from “just climbing” to route setting. I set for about 7-8 years and it was here that I learned about and fell in love with movement. In route setting I really enjoyed designing movement, either mimicking something I found outdoors or building something I one day hoped to find.
So for me, movement was the first thing I was drawn to that I incorporated into photography, but then when you add in the aesthetic of a boulder you get to paint an even more rich portrait for the viewer. To be honest, some boulders do not lend themselves to the most pleasing aesthetics, but that does not mean that a single move can’t capture your imagination. For example, in Black Mountain, Bang On is a hard climb of historical significance, but the boulder that it lives on could be one of the ugliest ones to photograph. However, the movement (first 3 moves) of this problem are iconic and are amazing to document from a close angle. You need to understand the climb and the area to best choose how and what you will capture.
One of Anthony’s shots of Isaac Palatt on Bang On (V13)
Outdoor aesthetics is one thing, but there’s also a lot of focus going into making indoor boulders beautiful too. With unique designs, massive volumes, and wild movement, it seems there’s a lot of focus toward making indoor boulders cooler to viewers. How do you feel about this? Do you think indoor boulders can be beautiful too? Or does nature outclass anything you’ve seen inside?
Yes, I think indoor climbing can be beautiful. I have shot both local and international bouldering competitions and they have been amazing showcases of both movement and how you can harness the energy of a crowd as part of the environment.
I am of the opinion that indoor bouldering is its own, stand-alone discipline to outdoor climbing. The movements, mindset, skillset are both the same and different. I have seen professional route setters build comp problems to get insane movement along with crowd reaction that helps to amplify the imagery of the sport, you do not have the same elements outside.
When you talk about indoor vs outdoor it is really not about movement but environment and I would find it hard to compare Camp 4 to an indoor bouldering gym, the atmosphere is not really comparable, but that is solely based on what I enjoy and may not be the same for those who enjoy a close to home or indoor experience. As the sport progresses I believe it will be important to embrace both sides of the spectrum as they individually have something unique to offer.
I imagine you’ve traveled to hundreds of crags across the world. What is the most beautiful area you’ve been to? This includes the movement on the rock, rock quality, and the pure visual aspect. In other words, which area makes your job as a photographer easy and most enjoyable?
That is a hard question, each crag is so unique to itself and has its own elements that make me want to climb and shoot. Here is a quick breakdown:
Buttermilks
One of the best places to shoot wide landscape imagery, the location simply lends itself to the cause and the movement + background makes it hard to take a bad shot, even in the Sads and Happies.
Font
Hands down, my favorite place to climb but it is harder to shoot throughout the day then the Buttermilks due to the large amount of trees and constantly moving shadows.
Magic Wood
Amazing location & movement on rock but it can be tricky. The area is really dense and you only get several hours of sunlight due to the canyon being very narrow.
Mt Potosi
Yes, a chiseled cave in the Las Vegas desert is on the list. Why? Epic movement with a lot of air beneath you and the climber. It is one of the first places I truly learned how to collaborate on a vision with a climber (Thank You Mr. Raether).
Yosemite
Can’t rule this place out and it keeps getting better and better. It is iconic but for me it is really about moving outside of Camp 4 and bringing the new vision of the Valley to life. There are so many new opportunities to capture a different perspective here than have been seen before.
The Gunks
You will NOT find a better location to climb or shoot in the fall if you are a fan of fall color, you just won’t.
You’ve probably interacted and been around some insane crushers doing their thing. Do you have any tricks or tips for us humans that the pros use that you’ve seen and really stood out to you?
It may be cliche to say, but honestly it is really about mindset. Yes, everyone sees professional climbers crush hard grades and assume it is because they are a mutant and they are, but not their bodies, it is their mind. You see a problem, they see a solution they have not found yet, the difference is subtle. [Wow, I love that mentality. I see people giving up on boulders so easily! I find the best climbers all have are relentless in finding a beta that works. Note how I say “a beta” instead of “getting the strength” to do it!]
The switch between the two moves their mindset into a realm of possibilities. At the end of the day it comes down to how bad do you want it and what are you willing to do to get it? It has never been about anything physical, yes you have to train to climb your project, but you will need more than physical prowess to send. I have seen more problems sent based on the climber’s mindset and trust in themselves to complete the task than their physical abilities and I have also seen climbers at the highest level be physically able to do a problem but be locked out by their own mindset and lack of faith or trust in their own abilities.
When elite boulderers are trying hard, what is the overall vibe at the crag? Are they super focused on the task at hand? Is it very serious and intense? Or is the mood more lighthearted and emphasizing simply having a good time?
It really depends on the climber and each climber tends to tackle a climb differently. I have been at the crag where it is light hearted and each attempt and moment is kept chill, but I have also been with climbers where they are incredibly emotional and use that to push themselves on their project. Everyone has their own methodology which they respond best to and to be an observer has been interesting. There are a lot of variables that change how an attempt may go, who is the climber, what is their deadline, how long have they been on the line, sponsor pressure, travel pressure, everything can be taken into account. I have seen a climber roll up at 2am, get about 4 hours of sleep, have cigarettes and coffee for breakfast, warm-up & send Joshua Tree’s hardest problem and roll out before their flight in LA. [LMAO, this reminds of this epic Madrock video comparing Matt Fultz, Ethan Pringle, and Taylor McNeill]. In their mind, they were going to do it and it was going to be what it was going to be…fun.
Having read about your past, I know you were quite the crusher yourself but were in a car accident several years ago that derailed your climbing goals. How has this accident changed your perspective on climbing? Do you still climb and seek improvement?
The car accident was a big moment for me. It changed a lot of ways I looked at life and climbing, essentially life telling me to slow down and is climbing really that important. At the same time the car accident also pushed me in another direction, while I was rehabbing I switched from climbing to picking up a camera. I could not climb, but I still wanted to experience time with friends, travel and if I couldn’t climb hard at least I could document my friends. From there I grew from documenting my friends to shooting for magazines, climbing companies and honestly my focus on physically rock climbing fell away and I was hooked on photography. I still project and still have goals to get back to where I once was, but perhaps they are tempered now.
A lot of us deal with injuries and have to go through rehab. But few of us have had as traumatic an experience as you. How did you mentally deal with the realization that your climbing would be hindered in the future after the accident?
After the accident my perspective on what is important changed, cliche yes, but honestly it shifted to one of more acceptance. I was going 100 miles a minute without stopping and most likely missing a lot of what was in front of me. I made a choice after the accident to allow life to distract me more, to lead me on new paths. [Hmmmm… I found allowing this is good for some overthinkers like myself]. The focus of just climbing hard no longer consumed me, I do think my ego does sneak up from time to time and I have moments of regret, but if I am being honest I was no hindered by the accident it simply changed my path.
As climbers, our bodies are our primary tool and a necessity for a major source of our happiness. But, as in your case, this tool can go in the blink of an eye and - completely transforming our lives. How important is it to keep things in perspective and maintain other hobbies, interests, etc outside of climbing?
At first climbing was simply about evolving and moving up the grade scale. But, as I have gotten older I realize I did not start climbing to climb hard grades. I started to climb to be with my friends and visit amazing places and that has not changed. [I’ve recently experienced this during COVID. It’s been amazing to have climbing partners instead of just grinding solo.] My best memories to date have been when I am with a fun crew at an amazing location…. a day spent in Font on a red circuit with only your shoes, chalk and a towel to dust off your soles as you run up 50 V1-V2s as you make your way deeper into the forest is a day well spent.